Ford Ranger & Mazda B-Series Pickup Clutch Hydraulic Release System Bleeding Procedures
Video shows an easy way to bleed the clutch hydraulics on a Ford Ranger or Mazda B-Series pickup. (Presented by Gary Croyle of Perfection) Video Topics include: – Describing symptoms of air trapped in the release system (ie no release, poor release, gear grinding, can’t put into 1st or reverse) – Bench Testing & Bleeding of Clutch Master Cylinder – Testing Clutch Master Cylinder on Vehicle – Inserting clutch line into new Perfection TECH-Link™ connector – Gravity Bleeding of Slave Cylinder – Demonstration of proper plate lift after successful clutch bleeding This whole clutch bleeding procedure was done using absolutely NO special tools. Only a Philips screwdriver was used. You can easily do this too! Try this procedure on your next Ford Ranger or Mazda pickup clutch job. You will be glad you did. It works, its easy and you will save lots of time! —— www.perfectionusa.com Perfection Technical Hotline: 1-800-258-8312 then dial 4 —— TECHnovation™ Clutch Hydraulics…. Designed and engineered to install faster and easier than original equipment, using existing lines and no special tools! Perfection offers a complete line of TECHnovation™ Clutch Hydraulics including concentric clutch slave cylinders, external clutch slave cylinders, clutch master cylinders and pre-filled units. TECHnovation™ is the natural evolution to Perfection’s “Service the System™” approach to clutch repair which leads to longer life and more importantly…happy customers.
After 2 days of bleeding my new master and slave cylinders to no avail, I followed the instructions in the video and had immediate results. Thank you so much for restoring my sanity and getting me back on the road!!!
Or with the tranny out of the vehicle, clutch slave installed, master cylinder and lines bled,,, then if I hooked it up to the slave cylinder to bleed it (already on the tranny on the floor), can the slave cylinder push itself apart like a brake wheel cylinder can or is there a built in stop to keep it from coming apart?
GREAT video! Apparently air bubbles got into my master cylinder and I couldn’t bleed it for the life of me, but this video had me up and running in about 10 minutes. Thank you for a great demonstration and explanation!!!
i agree its terrible you ran a hard molded line rather then a flexible line terribly routed, an internal slave, mounted the master cylinder to where the air gets easily trapped and by your own admission you knew it wasnt designed right but you built it anyways it should have been mounted at 90 degrees the bleed point for the slave isnt at the very top so air gets trapped there aswell. for the R&D that was spent im sure something better could have been built as a whole its a very half ass system.
imo this is a very poorly thought out set up. theres no need for the u shape in the line before it cross over the frame it creates issues with no real benefit. then the slave itself is more of a pita then its worth the only part you eliminate is the clutch fork so instead of being able to change the slave easily with 2 bolts and a quick hydraulic connection you have to pull the whole trans. its a poor attempt to simplify the system and it just causes more problems then it solves.
This was a big help to me in getting my ranger slave cylinder replaced, thanks.
Thanks for the tips on this. I replaced the line,master and slave cylinder ..and tapped on the line watching bubbles from in corners popping up into the reservoir then pushing the plunger in,which left me with 1/16 of push left in the plunger about 5 mins worth..awesome video!
hooked it to a new slave cylinder on the trans and bled that for 2 full refills,
now my 91 Ranger 4×4 is just like new again ,besides the minor rust …
Thanks once again,truck came to life….
The Johnson’s
@rodinator12
Thats correct man……just let it run down,it makes a mess but it works fine that way….did the same with mine.
Excellent video…95 ford ranger.. installed . new clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder and of course replacement clutch …. Very very important ,defintely bench bleed these clutch master cylinders…I made the mistake of trying to bleed the system with system all installed on car….definite no no! Under his instruction….this was a peace of cake..
Great video. Really helps in seeing how to do this. The only problem I have is that the clutch slave cylinder has been redesigned and now there is no way to attach a hose to the bleed valve on the slave cylinder. Am I supposed to just let the brake fluid just run down the transmission now in order to bleed it?
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. The Haynes manual said I could do this while still on the truck for my 95, I tried and tried, what a joke and waste of money on the book. Worked the first time after watching your video and removing the clutch master cylinder from the vehicle. My clutch is way out on the end which isn’t good but time will til….Thanks again.
Great teaching tool thanks for posting this made my job easy
@matflashlight it only took me 1/2 hr to remove my clutch slave cyl and hang it in the garage like the video shows alone
how much does the throwout bearing travel when system is bled? 1/2 inch, or 5/16
Hey, i have a 2001 Mazda b3000 extended cab, it was in a wreck in the front pretty bad. i fixed it but now my high beams don’t work. The bulbs are good but there is a plug i can’t find where it goes to it has 5 wires and they are; red(black stripe) green (black stripe) green(yellow stripe) blue(orange stripe) and solid black. If anyone knows where this goes can you please tell me? Or if anyone knows where i could go to find this. Any help is greatly appreciated!
@tobroke2007 Its the clutch master cylinder there is also a brake master cylinder just a different master cylinder
@ogjoec yall keep saying master cylinder? ok is it the master slave cylinder? or master cylinder. that would through some people off thats not so machanically inclined since there is a brake master cylinder sitting pretty much inches from the master slave cylinder.
matflashlight – you take your mast. cylinder and reservior off the truck and bench bleed it just like he shows, then put them back on. No fluid will come out the line connector while it’s undone. Bench bleeding like this is the ONLY way you’ll ever get the air out of Ranger clutch system.
Installed a new slave cylinder with the new type line retainer clip in my 99 Ranger. Bled system and it worked fine for a couple of days. Coming home last night I bent the clutch pedal when I tried to depress the clutch. The line had come out of the slave cylinder. Looks like the clip does not have enough tension to keep it behind the shoulders on the line. Thinking of safety wiring the clip ends together to try and hold it in place. Any suggestions?????
let me ask you this, how easy is it to remove the master and the attached lines from a 01 ranger, i know that after i watched this procedure i went down to my ranger and noticed that the master has a line connected that goes to the back firewall where their is a semo bulky connection before it extends down to under the truck, im not sure what this is, is it easy to move? thanks
@98eck Please call our tech support line at 1-800-258-8312 ext. 4.
@fired71 Please call our tech support line at 1-800-258-8312 ext. 4.
im having a problem, ive bled both cylinders onmy nissan 300zx for over 5 hours still thinking theres air bubbles because my clutch peddle still stays at the ground and will not go back up. ive switched the pumps thinking they probobly didnt work over 5 times now and still no luck
Please someone any advice its my only transportation to work and school.
What happens when the bleeder is so tight that it snaps off? Hopfully I will be able to answer my own question soon.
It’s been a few days. The slave still isn’t working correctly. Truck creeps forward while in gear, with pedal depressed. Also hard to shift. and truck wants to roll if you try to start in gear with the pedal pressed.
no just use dot 3 or dot 4. Dot 4 has silicone in it so if you change to dot 4 change it all out.